This past summer, we tried to introduce a new acronym into the English language, because clearly we don’t have enough of those yet. OTF came up with YGWYPF, or “you get what you pay for,” and the first subject of our scrutiny was a pair of Legoman cufflinks bought on Etsy. Today, we move up the food chain a few links to examine an Oxxford sport coat.
What you see here is a basted jacket, i.e. an incomplete garment that’s held together with basting thread. Going forward, when ordering a suit or coat from Oxxford for a customer new to the brand, we are going to make it our standard operating procedure to have the garment be sent to us in this stage first, so we can perform what’s commonly called a “basted fitting”. At this early point in a jacket’s life, major surgery is relatively feasible, so it’s very easy to make adjustments to everything, from the coat sides to sleeve rotations to the drape.
The ability to make a wide variety of fairly substantial changes is part of makes Oxxford’s MTM (another acronym!), or made to measure, program so appealing. Having a basted fitting allows us to make a suit that’s far better tailored to an individual than anything available to him off the rack. Of course, Oxxford makes a note of every change we request, so future orders incorporate them.
The photos here also show another aspect of what makes Oxxford clothing so special. That coarse, off-white color material you see on the inside of the jacket is the canvas, and it’s what gives the jacket its shape. The best suits in the world are fully canvassed; the very best, like Oxxford, are fully canvassed by hand. Jackets so constructed fit better than fused garments, molding to the body’s curves over time. They’re also supremely comfortable to wear.
To view our selection of Oxxford swatches, see sample garments, or just talk shop, please visit our San Francisco store. Keep an eye on this space, or sign up for our newsletter, to be notified of future trunk shows.