Tag Archives: Dormeuil

Alfie Michael Caine Dormeuil Tonik

This Thursday: Dormeuil Fabrics & Wingtip Suits

One of the world’s premier fabric mills returns to Bespoke Thursday for their fall trunk show. Dormeuil has existed at the top of the fabric game since 1846, and are revered the world over, from the traditional tailors of Savile Row to the contemporary creatives of Napoli. When you take a fabric from one of Dormeuil’s many books, and use the yards to create an American-made Wingtip suit, you have one of the finest custom offerings available anywhere in the market. (Pictured above: Michael Caine wears his famed Dormeuil Tonik suit in Alfie)

Among the fabrics on offer are a few recent introductions to the Dormeuil line:

  • Iconik Nano (water-repellant Super 120s Australian Merino suiting)
  • Cashmere Towntex (a “fashionable vintage look” that is a wool-and-cashmere update on the original 1960s Towntex line)
  • Jade (the “Talisman” fabric is made from wool treated with jade-infused waters that are said to have relaxing and lucky powers; if nothing else, it’s made from truly beautiful, exceptionally thin Super 160s New Zealand wool)
  • Cashasilk (supremely soft cashmere-silk blends woven into bold jacket styles)
  • Dormeuil visits Wingtip this Thursday, all-day. To schedule a consultation or fitting, please email bespoke@wingtip.com. Walk-ins are welcome.

    Ami's Wedding

    A Wingtip Wedding

    On Saturday, September 14th, Wingtip — the store and the club — hosted its first wedding: my wedding to my beautiful wife, Stacy. And since this is the company’s blog, and the store and the club played a starring role in the entire day, I thought I’d do a recap of the details that would be most interesting to our customers and members.

    This wedding would not have been possible without the generosity of many of Wingtip’s vendors including Dormeuil (my tuxedo fabric), Antonio Valente (tuxedo shirts), Michael Toschi (my shoes), Donatiello Winery (reception wine), Dion Neckwear (groom’s bow tie & braces), Telford’s (cigars), Pantherella (groomsmen’s silk hosiery), Per Diem (catering), Louis Walton Ties (groomsmen’s bow ties), and all of the Wingtip employees that helped it make it a very special day.

    Hint: mouse-over the photos for the director’s commentary.

    Frank Sinatra in Black Tie

    The Tuxedo: As If You Needed an Excuse


    After 37 years of life, and 10+ years in menswear, here are my conclusions on a dinner jacket/tuxedo:

    • Every gentleman should own one; renting is for high school prom. Call me a snob.
    • Once you own a tuxedo, you find opportunities to wear it. You actually look forward to invites that include “Black Tie Optional.”
    • Inevitably, you will be invited to a once-in-a-lifetime event that requires a tuxedo or dinner jacket, and you will not have time to rent or buy, and you’ll miss out unless you have one hanging in your closet.
    • It is a conversation starter anywhere you go. Strangers will ask about the occasion to which you can answer whatever you like.
    • Given a half-dozen or so uses a year, and assuming no major changes in your body shape (+/- 3″ in the waist), your investment ends up lasting a decade or more if you buy a timeless silhouette.
    • Lastly, what are you? A farmer?

    Of course, you can purchase a tuxedo or dinner jacket from just about any men’s store. We have a few off-the-rack, but to date, most of our formalwear orders have been made-to-measure which, to be honest, is the way we prefer it. The tuxedo is so standardized that the opportunity to make minor customizations – peak vs. shawl collar, satin vs. grosgrain, black vs. midnight blue, etc. — is a major benefit to ordering one custom-made.

    To sweeten the deal for members of the club at Wingtip who invest in a tuxedo from us, we are instituting two perks that we can safely say are totally unique in the menswear industry:

    • Free cocktails on any visit to the club when you a member is wearing their Wingtip tuxedo, and
    • A lifetime free ticket to our annual Frank Sinatra Holiday party (value: at least $150/yr)**

    Stop in any time during the store’s operating hours to browse our options of models, fabrics, and makes, but for dedicated attention, make an appointment by emailing bespoke@wingtip.com.

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    Dormeuil Fall Fabrics

    Our Bespoke shop just received a package of fall fabric books from Dormeuil. They are incredible as usual, and we’re especially enthused by the new Cashasilk book (excerpts below, followed by the cool hues of the Cashmere Club fabric).

    The Cashasilk is a blend of 70% Mongolian cashmere and 30% silk. We can’t wait to see a fall jacket made from this material. Who’s getting theirs made first?

    gatsby_poster

    Two Cannes Looks: Gatsby Fabrics and Jewel Thieves

    FILM-USED “GATSBY” DORMEUIL CLOTHS AT BESPOKE

    Earlier this, week Baz Luhrman’s “The Great Gatsby” opened up the 2013 Cannes film festival. We were very excited to hear that Dormeuil worked with “Gatsby” producer Catherine Martin to provide the fabric for many of the film’s Roaring 20s-style men’s suits. Although the famed and film-used Sportex (unveiled in 1922–the same year that F. Scott Fitzgerald’s book takes place) is now retired, three fabrics that were in the film are currently available through Bespoke:

    From left to right: Fabric #885070, from the Naturals book, is a deep navy in a summer blend of 55% cotton, 25% linen, and 20% silk; #316259, a Royal 12 Classic, is a fancy stripe in 370g 100% wool; and #307300, from the Amadeus book, is a classic, plain black, which was selected for Gatsby’s high-sheen tuxedo.

    The official word is that the first two fabrics were also worn by lead players, but we’re not sure just who wore them. In fact, we’ll take 20% off a Dormeuil-cloth suit for the first person who can conclusively identify those fabrics–885070 and 316259–in the film. Which actor/character wore them? And in what scene? (Email your sleuthing to bespoke@wingtip.com)

    CAT BURGLAR CHIC

    It’s not all Champagne and red carpets on the Croisette. It was reported late last night that a million bucks worth of CHopard jewels had been stolen out of a Suite Novotel Cannes Centre hotel room. The thief had drilled through a hotel wall and absconded with the safe intact (Details via the Hollywood Reporter).

    So, if cat burglary is your bag, we recommend leaving the suit at home and going with this classic, time-tested get-up (in cashmere):

    Both the Wingtip Gentleman’s basic turtleneck and the ribbed beanie are created by Scotland’s Johnstons of Elgin.

    Alfie Michael Caine Dormeuil Tonik

    Thursday: Dormeuil Trunk Show


    In 1963, a few years before Michael Caine gave the name Alfie a face, novelist Bill Naughton had to dress the titular playboy of his novel “Alfie” in a believable way, and he knew just which fabric to choose:

    “I was wearing a navy-blue suit,” recalls Alfie in the novel, “in a material called Tonik, made by Dormeuil, and I didn’t want it spoiling. I don’t care whether a bird uses Max Factor Mattfilm or Outdoor Girl from Woolworth’s, if she starts purring up against your lapel, it won’t look the better for it.”

    Tonik was–and is–the fabric of choice for mods, jazz cats, and guys on-the-go who need a crisp looking suit that will drape nicely even after a 12-hour flight.

    And Thursday, from 12pm to 7pm, in Bespoke, Luke Mayes and Dan Stevenson of Dormeuil are in house with their incredible collection of cloths, ready to suit any demanding occasion that your inner-Alfie can think of.

    Wingback Chair in Dormeuil Super 120s

    A Chair fitting of the Fitting Room

    Wingback Chair in Dormeuil Super 120sWhile you’re trying on your new suit made from Dormeuil’s Matterhorn Blue, you may have brought a friend or SO along for the fitting. Or perhaps you need to rest your feet while waiting for the tailor to steam your coat. You’ll need a place to sit. A wingback chair seems appropriate. But the run-of-the-mill upholstery fabrics are so “built-to-last.” We thought we’d go the opposite route, and drape our Fitting Room’s chair in a Dormeuil Super 120’s wool with the selvage prominently on display running up the cushion and back of the chair. It is, as you’d expect, an incredibly soft & luxurious chair. It certainly won’t wear as long as a traditional upholstery fabric; it’s not meant to. But hey, life is short.

    The Fitting Room in the Bank of Italy’s old Safe Deposit Box vault should be opening Tuesday, September 4th. Stay tuned for professional photography…

    matterhorn cover

    The most exclusive cloth on the market: Dormeuil’s Matterhorn Blue

    matterhorn cover170 sheep. 170 suits. That is how Dormeuil, one of the world’s premier fabric mills, celebrates their 170th birthday.

    The “Matterhorn Blue” fabric was woven into eight separate patterns. And while overall there is just enough fabric to produce 170 suits, there can only be 18 suits — worldwide — in the fabric we selected. The merino sheep that produced this wool live a happy and luxurious life in pristine New Zealand hills (See them in their video here) — a stark contrast to the Alpine conditions evoked by the mixture of blues in the fabric.

    The fabric really is in a class of its own, and extremely detailed. A variety of weaves and subtly different shades of blue yield stripes of varying width, which are then accented by a lavender pinstripe. The remarkable construction lends this fabric it incredible textural distinction.

    We can’t wait to see this fabric turned into a suit. So, down to brass tacks: The Matterhorn Blue fabric costs $1,600/yd (a suit will require 4 yards), so you’re looking at an $8,000-$11,000 suit depending on which of our tailors you choose. And of course, you can always just buy the cloth and take it the tailor of your choice.