Our pre-Father’s Day event with Goorin Bros will feature a hat raffle, refreshments, and gifts-with-purchase.
June 10th, 11am-7pm
Our pre-Father’s Day event with Goorin Bros will feature a hat raffle, refreshments, and gifts-with-purchase.
The club’s 3rd Annual Kentucky Derby Party will feature southern fare, race day programs, and, of course, the most exciting two minutes of sports all year long.
Michters is sponsoring the event, and has offered to buy everyone their first drink. Furthermore, each ticketed guest will receive an engraved Mint Julep cup, which entitles you to unlimited juleps for the duration of the event.
Wingtip Wardrobe Consultant Alvin Lampkins mixes and matches Agave’s Spring/Summer collection with accoutrements from Sperry-Topsider, Goorin Bros., and Bills Khakis. See the links for more details.
“For 2014, Agave was inspired by beach and ocean colors. Their new shirting is reminiscent of workwear, but very comfortable, with a texture of washed gauze. It’s like workwear-at-play. Similarly, their five-pocket trousers have a pre-washed quality, which makes for a very soft feel.”
“Here, we took Agave’s beach sensibilities and gave it a very preppy accent with Bills Khakis’ canvas d-ring belt.” Jefe Japanese Soft Plaid Cotton Shirt in Small Indigo Plaid ($205), Rocker D-Ring Canvas Belt in navy (6 colors available; $55).
“Another way to pair these outfits with the beach-inspired theme is with the Sperry-Topsiders, a traditional American brand that is white hot hip right now. The two-tone seen here is a boat shoe, which I we like to think of as the American counterpart to the European driving loafer.” Top photo: Jefe Japanese Soft Plaid Cotton Shirt in Small Indigo Plaid ($205), Sperry Top-Sider Made In Maine Boat Shoe; bottom photo: Craftsman Japanese Neps Chambray Shirt, Sperry Top-Sider Gold Cup Authentic 2-Toned Boat Shoe, Rocker
“Pairing these outfits with Goorin Bros. hats makes them perfect for today’s hipster. From the bottom up, you have your Railroad denim (Jonah Newsboy, $42), your summer tweed (John Milton Flatcap, $36), and the Moretti Fedora ($38) with the thick, accentuated band–giving it a hipster meets Rat Pack look.”
Ever since the pool of Best Picture nominees swelled from five to a possible ten, we’ve been disinclined to make any serious wagers on these ridiculous awards. So, this year, we’re presenting our totally unofficial, irredeemable, and for-your-entertainment-purposes-only (even if you’re not entertained) Men’s Oscars Style Odds.
Someone from the Dallas Buyers’ Club crew wears a gold jacket 6:1
Matthew McConaughey (Dallas Buyers’ Club nominee for Best Actor) wore a gold tuxedo jacket to the Palm Springs International Film Festival this year, and Jared Leto (Dallas Buyers’ Club nominee for Best Supporting Actor) wore the look to the Oscar Nominees luncheon. Maybe it’s time for Dallas Buyers’ Club director Jean-Marc Vallée to give the look a try?
Leo buttons his bottom button 2:1
To button or not to button? Conventional wisdom discourages buttoning the bottom button of your suit jacket, but Leonardo DiCaprio (Best Actor nominee for The Wolf Of Wall Street) has stubbornly refused over and over again. He could sidestep the issue with a one-button tux jacket, but the safe money is on a two-button (both buttoned) look. [Above: DiCaprio leaves the button undone as the fictional Jordan Belfort, but he can’t decide which way to go in real life.]
Samuel L. Jackson Wears A Hat 4:5
The backwards Kangol has long been a trademark of Samuel L. Jackson, and while he tones down the logos for awards shows, he, nevertheless, is often behatted. The above photos, ranging from 1995 to 2013, make this one look like a toss-up. But this year, he’s not a nominee or even part of a marquee film like last year’s Django Unchained, he’s just presenting. So we bet he goes with a hat–we’ll even give 4:1 odds that it’s a Kangol. (Though we think the Goorin Bros.’ Esteban is the way to go.)
Ellen DeGeneres Outfit Changes: over/under 2.5
Yes, this year’s Oscars host, Ellen DeGeneres, can wear menswear better than alot of guys. And while 2011 host Anne Hathaway famously shuffled through eight outfit changes (including a nice-fitting tux, above), we bet Ellen sticks to one central tuxedo. We’re taking the “Under.”
Bill Murray accent colors: o/u 3.5
No one does black tie Oscars style quite like Bill-Freaking-Murray. He will be presenting an Academy Award for the first time this weekend, so we’re expecting a splash–but how much of a splash? This is the guy that wore mixed madras on the Croisette. One plaid and this bet is almost safe–throw in a pocket square and it’s a lock. [Above left: The Moonrise Kingdom premiere at Cannes; above center: Grand Hotel Budapest premiere this month at the Berlin Film Festival; above right: 2013 Golden Globes.]
Martin Scorsese’s glasses: o/u “dark chocolate”
We’re used to seeing him rock, chunky black frames, but Martin Scorsese showed up to the Golden Globes in a much lighter hue this year. Will he return to black-on-black for the Oscars?
We are pleased to announce that, after a five year hiatus, Goorin Bros. hats are once again available at Wingtip.
Fourth generation hat-makers, the Goorin Brothers, have a rich heritage and tradition that stretches back to 1895, when Cassel Goorin founded his hat shop in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The company moved to San Francisco in 1949, and they continue to this day, outfitting men and women with “authentic family craftsmanship.” Order online or visit our Goorin Bros. shop-in-shop at Wingtip to see the 10+ new styles in person.
Early next month, Pauls Hat Works will be in Louisville fitting gents for Derby Day straw hats. But you have a chance to get your hands on some authentic Ecuadorian straw before the Pauls run through their supply.
Paul #4 will be in Bespoke from 12-5pm this Friday. Fittings from 12-3 are booked solid, but there are still available slots between 3 and 5pm.
The usual, incredible supply of Pauls’ felt hats will also be available. Contact email@example.com to make an appointment.
This past weekend, The New York Times ran a fascinating piece on Theodor Seuss Geisel’s hat collection, which kicked off a nationwide tour with shows at the New York Public Library and the Animazing Gallery in SoHo.
Geisel, better known as Dr. Seuss, used the hats as inspiration in books like “The Cat in the Hat” and “The 500 Hats of Bartholomew Cubbins,” and the man was a lifelong hat fanatic.
Per the Times: “He collected hundreds of them, plumed, beribboned and spiked, and kept them in a closet hidden behind a bookcase in his home in the La Jolla section of San Diego. He incorporated them into his personal paintings, his advertising work and his books. He even insisted that guests to his home don the most elaborate ones he could find.”
We will be pleased to host two of our bespoke brands at the new Wingtip (550 Montgomery St.) on Wednesday 9/19, 12pm–7pm.
Oxxford Clothes, of Chicago, will set you up with what the Robb Report and Forbes both agreed is the best American suit.
And Paul’s Hat Works, from SF’s Richmond district, will explain to you why the best Panama hats are Ecuadorian. (Read more about them here.)
No need to RSVP, but if you want to let us know you’re stopping by, here’s the Facebook Event page.
In 1918, a Peruvian immigrant named Napoleon Marquez, who had been reared on the Ecuadorian style of straw hat-making, emigrated to the United States, and opened City Hat Works on Geary Boulevard in the Outer Richmond.
It was a boom time for hats. Take a look at this excerpt from a 1921 American Hatter magazine article:
“When one traverses the streets of San Francisco he really wonders if there are any defined styles of hats for men. Being a cosmopolitan city it attracts men of all nations and within one block one can see almost every kind of hat or cap that was ever made. There are soft hats of all sizes, derbies of every shape, big sombreros of men of the plains, and the ever-present cap.”
Marquez’s godson, Kelly Bowling, took over the shop upon his retirement, and dubbed it “Paul’s” Hat Works, a reference to Napoleon’s nickname. A third owner, Michael Harris came aboard in the ’80s. But the omnipresence of hats had long since evaporated–maybe due to JFK eschewing the fashion fixture, or maybe because of the impracticality of wearing a hat in the car.
In any case, on December 28th, 2012 the San Francisco Chronicle published a deathbed eulogy of the venerated husk:
“Geary Boulevard is a busy street, but it’s quiet at Paul’s on a December afternoon and the place smells musty, like one of those tombs explored by Indiana Jones, who always wore a hat.
“‘Outside,’ [owner Michael] Harris said, ‘it is 2008. In here, it is 1924.’
“One minute he says he’s going to close the place, the next he says he’s optimistic about finding a buyer. He hints about negotiations, but it sounds like wishful thinking.
“‘I hope somebody will step up to the plate and invest in the future of part of San Francisco,’ he said. ‘When places of this caliber are lost, they seldom come back.'”
Four days later, on New Year’s Day, 2009, Harris opened up his shop as a ceremonial way of saying goodbye. Right next door at Joe’s Coffee Shop, four New Year’s Eve-attired women—Abbie Dwelle, Olivia Griffin, Wendy Hawkins, and Kirsten Hove–were eating breakfast. On their way down the block, they saw that the usually-closed Paul’s Hat Works was open. They took a look inside.
‘Oh, you’re finally open,’ said Olivia. ‘I love your hatboxes. What are you doing here? Why are you never open?’
Harris explained, ‘I make hats. Nobody buys hats anymore. I’ve been making hats for too long. I started as a sign painter, and 35 years later, I should probably go back to being a painter. You’re my knight in shining armor. Hello. Buy my store.’
“We were like, ‘Yeah right, we can’t buy your store, thats silly,'” recalls Abbie recently. “‘Well, maybe we can, I don’t know, let’s talk about it.'”
Spoiler alert: They bought it.
“None of us had read the [Chronicle] article. It was just a coincidence,” recalls Abbie, who also supplied the above quotes, while showing a couple of us Wingtippers around the Works.
In 2012, the shop is infused with life, while still tied to its history. There’s a fluorescent display in the windows, but there’s big-band music playing on an automatic record-changer. (That’s like a CD changer–which now sounds dated in its own right–maybe more like shuffle mode. You know, it’s old.)
Abbie demonstrates how to properly fit a head for a hat, using me as a subject. To find my hat size, she unveils the conformiture (left), which she assure me its the absolute height of 1860s technology. It looks like a torture helmet, but its metal fingers deliver a brief massage as they wrap around my skull and measure its perimeter. Abbie pulls a small lever and 50 pins impress a note card with their findings.
Turns out I have a medium-oval head.
As Abbie shows us around the shop–including an incredible collection of antique hat moldings–we ask a few more questions:
How did you learn how to make hats?
We apprenticed with the previous owner, as he had apprenticed with the previous owner, as he had apprenticed with the previous owner.
We had a lot of history individually in sewing and costuming and knowing textiles, and when we started apprenticed with [Harris] he was like, ‘Man, it took me 10 years to get to where you guys are.’ We still call him once every month, two months–[Harris is now a] landscape painter in Southern California–but were starting to invent things ourselves too.
Could you explain the controversy over the name of the “Panama” hat?
What is normally called the Panama hat is a hat that has been handwoven in Ecuador. The hat was popularized with the opening of the Panama Canal, so you had all these people–not from the area–working in the sun, and you also had this new hub of commerce. So everybody was like, ‘Oh, I can take this thing that I make for myself and sell it to people, tourists, workers.’ I think one of the presidents bought the entire workforce straw hats. It became popular there for those reasons, so the “Panama” hat has stuck.
How did you put your crew together?
I met all of them individually in different places and they all eventually moved in with me in the neighborhood, and we lived together and did a theatrical, costuming community production company [called Superfragilecatalytic productions].
We kind of have the same roles here: I do the maintenance, Olivia does the talking, Kirsten is naturally good at collecting resources, Wendy’s a great bookkeeper…
I like umbrellas a lot visually, and I have a giant collection of umbrellas–but I hate using them. Especially in SF, because it rains sideways, and the wind, and the breaking of the umbrella…
I’ve worn hats in the rain before, but learning about beaver felt and making hats out of beaver felt–it’s phenomenal. I can walk around for two or three hours wearing my beaver felt hat and a trench coat and I’m fine, and when I walk up to the street corner and there’s this really sad, wet, cold man standing there, and he can’t see because the rain’s blowing in his eyes, and he’s gotta cross the street and you can tell he’s miserable… I feel so guilty ’cause I’m standing next to him, I’m warm, I’m dry, I can see and it’s romantic and beautiful outside when its pouring rain, ’cause my hat protects me and when I get home I just put my hat upside down and let it dry and then I wear it the next day.
Is the beaver felt given a special treatment?
The hats are not treated with anything, we’re kind of purists that way, but the beaver felt is naturally water repellant. It’s not water proof. It will soak up the water eventually. Beaver felt is great because even when its soaking wet, it can hold its shape, it has a really great memory–it’ll keep the snap and the brim.
Where did the vintage ribbons come from?
The vintage ribbons have been collected by the previous owners of the store over the years. As other hat businesses and fabric stores have gone under, the previous owners started collecting and buying people out. They’re all cotton-rayon, pre-1940s, all natural, and the colors are classy and muted. If you tell me you want grey ribbon, I ask, ‘Do you want brown-grey, green-grey, yellow-grey, blue-grey? I mean, lets get specific here.’
Specific indeed. To create a hat to your measurements get in touch with us at firstname.lastname@example.org.